Pochodzenie banyanów jest bardzo zagadkowe i po pierwsze raczej nie znajdziemy o nich informacji z popularnych wydaniach, tylko tych bardziej specjalistycznych, a po drugie, każdy tekst podaje trochę inne informacje. Wszystkie te informacje skrupulatnie zbieram i opisuję w swojej książce, ale teraz znalazłam coś nowego, jeszcze troszkę innego o moim poprzednich informacji. To jest notka z jakiejś dziwnej strony LACMA, którą znalazłam przypadkiem i więcej nie uda mi się jej znaleźć. W każdym razie można zaufać tej notatce, skoro jest publikowana pod szyldem takiego muzeum. Ciekawa jestem ich bibliografii. Wrzucam notatkę, ale uprzedzam, że to tylko jedna z "prawd" o banyanach i mantuach. Przede wszystkim nigdy nie spotkałam się z tym określeniem "rocken", a jest tu przedstawione jako bardziej popularne niż banyan, co jest bardzo dziwne.
As early as 1639 Japanese kimono (called "Japonse rocken" in Dutch) were imported into Europe where they became very fashionable as dressing gowns.
The "rocken" were so popular, that the Dutch began manufacturing them in India. The Indian-made dressing gowns were known both as "Japonse rocken" or as "banyan", named for the cast of Indian merchants that sold them. The "rocken" (or kimono) were the predecessors of the mantua. The gown was constructed from long, uncut lengths of fabric measured from the toes in front, up over the shoulder, down the full length of the back. Pieces of fabric were added at shoulder height to provide sleeves. The simple style of construction enabled the garment to be copied in Europe by the household's seamstress.
When the mantua evolved into a gown to be worn out in society, it was unique to European costume construction, because it was pleated and pinned into shape, instead of being sewn to shape from cut pattern pieces. This was an important innovation for the history of dress in Europe.
na tej samej stronie w innym miejscu o mantuach:
French Fashion
During the reign of Louis XIV (ruled 1662-1715), France became the arbitrator of European style and taste. The king established a design studio at Versailles where artisans developed patterns for interior spaces, textiles, lace and embroidery. Engraved illustrations of the designs were circulated throughout Europe. Fashionable luxury goods, if not actually made in France, showed an awareness of the most current French mode.
Illustrations of the latest French fashions were produced in Paris print shops. These were widely distributed as individually engraved fashion plates to an international, fashion-conscious community, eager to emulate French style..
Descriptions of the latest French fashions for men and women could be found in the first society magazine Le Mercure galante, founded in Paris in 1670. Illustrations were included with the descriptions for the first time in 1678. The journal was so popular that it was blatantly copied and republished in other cities in France and The Netherlands.
The mantua as a fashionable gown appears to have been invented in France between 1660 and 1680, and the style quickly spread throughout Europe. Levi-Pizetsky, writing in her monumental study of the history of Italian costume, notes that "the word (in Italian) is spelled m-a-n-t-o', but is pronounced as in French, m-a-n-t-e-a-u, thus demonstrating its origin. The English term 'mantua' derives from the French manteau.
tu jest link do innych artykułów o tym:
http://www.bmotion.com/flash_site/clients/lacma/html/sleuth/fs-embroidery.htm
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